From farm work to trail riding, there are many ways in which an ATV can help you relax and unwind. Buying used is a fantastic way for people to achieve the goal of being an ATV owner without having to empty their wallets, but it can sometimes be hard to know if you are getting a good deal. Since owners often calculate use by hours, people often ask, is 200 hours a lot for an ATV?

The overall lifespan of a quad will depend on how the machine is used, where it is driven, and how well it is cared for. A quality ATV well maintained is capable of lasting many thousands of hours.

Continue reading to learn more about buying a used 4-wheeler, including what to look for when buying used and how many hours is considered a lot for a used ATV.

What Is the Life Expectancy of an ATV?

Not only is it hard to pinpoint an exact number when trying to calculate the lifespan of an ATV, but it is a topic that is debated among both professionals and riders. While some riders say that an ATV should last 15 years, others say they do not expect to get much more than five years of use out of their machines.

Although it is common for opinions to differ, the fact that they differ so greatly seems odd. However, the significant difference in opinion may be explained by the many factors that play into the overall lifespan of a quad—such as brand, use, and maintenance.

The Brand of the Quad

The type of ATV that you own may play an influential role in how long the machine will last. For example, Honda has built an excellent reputation among riders for manufacturing quality machines that rarely break down. On the other hand, riders often complain that Polaris ATVs do not last as long as they should and require frequent repairs.

In addition to the brand, the type of engine and other materials used to build the machine might also play a role in its life expectancy. For example, 4-stroke engines tend to be more durable than 2-stroke engines because they don’t fall victim to incorrect gas mix and four-strokes are not designed to run at such high RPMs.

How a Quad is Used

How the machine is used will also influence how long it will last. Trail machines that see light use will have a longer lifespan than a machine that is used for heavy-duty work, such as farm work and plowing.

Additionally, machines that are driven through rocky terrain or submerged continually will need repairs more often than quads that are used on well-groomed trails or roads. How it is driven will also affect its lifespan as hours of open throttle use may strain the engine more than hours of easy acceleration.

How Quad was Maintained

While there are bound to be brands that perform better than others, a key factor in how long your machine will last is maintenance. Even though Polaris may have a worse reputation than Honda, a well-maintained Polaris will last much longer than a Honda that is never serviced.

Riders who anticipate their machine’s needs, stick to the recommended service schedule and take precautions while riding will own their vehicle much longer than riders who simply fix things after they break.

How Many Miles Will an ATV Last?

As we already mentioned, the life expectancy of an ATV depends on several factors, which might explain why the answer to this question among users experience varies so significantly. That said, in my experience, a quality branded ATV that is well maintained should last between 15 to 20 years and is easily capable of clocking up a thousand plus hours.

So what’s that in miles? I’d consider an ATV a high mileage machine if it has over 10,000 miles on the clock and at an average of 100 hours to every thousand miles that equates to about 1000 hours.

There are always exceptions, some brands are just way more durable than others.

I’ve worked on ATVs with 15k plus miles and 2k plus hours but if I was asked to generalize, I’d say an ATV with over the 10k miles and 1k hours is what you might say “Well worn”.

The average lifespan of a regularly serviced quad is around 15 years, while harder working and dogged quads will probably last about 10 years.

How Was the ATV Used?

200 hours is not many hours for an ATV. But as you know, it depends on how the ATV was used. There is a big difference between 200 hours of work use (such as plowing) and 200 hours of leisurely riding on groomed trails. Even further, 200 hours of open throttle riding is much different from 200 hours of easy acceleration.

However, maintenance can make a substantial difference, and a well-maintained work vehicle will be in better condition than a never serviced quad that has only seen well-groomed trails.

Unlike a car, buyers cannot reasonably make a decision about a used machine based solely on an expected lifespan. Instead, it is vital that buyers ask extensively about the history of the machine, how it was used, where it was used, how it was driven, where it was driven, and what routine service was done on the ATV.

And as said some brands are just more durable than others.

Everything considered, 200 hours then is not a lot for a well serviced ATV. I’ve worked on ATVs with a ton of hours on the clock, two thousand plus.

Buyers should also be aware that in some models, the hour meter can run even if the motor is not running.

Several drivers have mentioned leaving the key turned by accident and racking up several hours on their meter.

What to Look for in a Used ATV?

When considering an ATV, divide the miles by the hours to get the average speed of the machine. The answer gives you a flavor of how the bike was used over its lifetime. It is of course an average and so doesn’t tell the whole story.

Take a bike with say 10k miles and 1k hours, running this calculation tells us she’s been driven at an average of 10mph over its life. As said it’s not the whole story but it does help you build a mental view of how she was used by the previous owner(s).

A very low average speed may not necessarily be a good thing, it means she may have been used for some heavy pulling, but at least having the knowledge will mean you’ll know to ask the right questions and you’ll take extra care checking components like transmission, etc.

But since hours and mileage can’t tell you everything you need to know about a quad, it is important to know what else to look for when buying a used ATV.

Tires

Tires can tell you a lot about how a quad has been driven, stored, and maintained. If the tires are missing chunks of rubber, this is a good sign that the machine was driven on rugged trails. Cracks in the rubber can sometimes be a sign of poor storage, such as being left out in the winter. Finally, if the machine is wearing tires that are obviously old and in need of replacement, this may be a sign that the maintenance was neglected on the vehicle.

It could also indicate the machine sat for a while and the rider did not want to spend money on tires that would not be used. Tires can be costly, however, knowing that they will need to be replaced may give you some haggle power.

Steering, Suspension & Brake System

Steering that needs constant correcting when driving straight is a symptom of balljoint wear, which is common, especially when oversized tires are fitted. To check for bad ball joints, grip the tire with both hands and try to rock it, side to side. Play indicates a worn steering rod ball joint.

The control A-arms employ ball joints also, and to check those, jack the wheel clear of the ground and rock the wheel top to bottom.

Play is a sign of ball joint wear.

Riders should check the shocks also. If you notice wetness towards the top of the shock, or it feels oily, it is likely leaking and will need to be replaced soon.

Drive CV boots are another common failure. If you notice sand or grease around the CV joints or inner joints, you will need to replace them before they damage the joint.

As with any vehicle, it is imperative that the brakes are working properly. Make sure to check the brake pads, calipers, and rotors for thickness, gouges, and leaks and the brake fluid should be changed every two years.

Engine Oil

Most people know they should check the oil when looking at a potential vehicle, but do you know what you are looking for? Both dirty and fresh oil can be a cause for concern. On the one hand, dirty oil could be a sign that the engine was not maintained properly, while fresh oil could be a sign that the seller is trying to disguise that very same issue.

If possible, try to check the oil after you know the vehicle was run (although not until after it has sat and cooled down).

Oil as you know is critical, old oil will break down and it will no longer lubricate the engine properly. This can cause metal parts to wear more quickly, which can cause metallic particles to mix with the oil and compound the issue by acting like liquid sandpaper.

Coolant

For water-cooled engines, coolant is the next most critical fluid. Check the coolant levels and condition as well. Coolant that appears discolored, oily, full of particles, or low may be a sign of a bigger problem.

Additionally, since coolant has three functions, prevents freezing, guards against internal engine corrosion, and acts as a lubricant, replacing and or topping up with tap water is not a good idea.

Body

Be sure to inspect the body and frame closely for any damage that might signal that the machine has been involved in a crash or was beat on/driven roughly. You should also look for signs of rust/corrosion. Looking at the vehicle from a front perspective may also alert you to any problems.

Frame, shock, and other problems could cause the machine to sit unevenly. Taking measurements may also be a clever way to spot frame damage.

Used ATV Inspection Checklist

Taking a checklist with you is a wonderful way to both know what to look for and make sure that you look at everything. Below you can find some of the most important things to look for while inspecting a used ATV.

Body

• Broken plastic
• Rust
• Seat wear/damage
• Headlights cracked/foggy
• Chipping paint
• Dents and scratches
• Recent repairs
• Modifications
• Frame issues
• Wheel rims
• Tires wear/damage
• Bent handlebars
• Broken levers or buttons
• Fuel tank
• Skid plate damage

Electrical

• Battery
• Starter motor
• Charging system
• Lights front and back (if fitted)
• Dash odometer/speedometer/lights
• Handle bar switches

Drive Line

• Check oil/coolant
• Cleanliness
• Leaks
• Oily spots
• Engine number
• Chassis number
• Radiator cracks/leaks
• Head gasket leaks
• Air filter clean
• Gas leaks
• Chains (if fitted)
• Belts (if fitted)
• Motor mounts
• Transmission performance
• Diff locks
• 4WD system (if fitted)
• History of valve adjustment

Chassis

• Wheel bearings
• Ball joints
• Brake pads
• Rotors
• Calipers
• Shocks
• CV joints
• CV boots
• Electric steering (if fitted)

Driving

• Starts well/hesitant
• Engine knocking or noise
• Normal acceleration/hesitant
• Exhaust color
• Gear slippage
• Steering straight
• Braking straight
• Stability
• Alignment
• Speed

Other

• Look for/research VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) number
• Ask about title
• Ask about service history
• Note condition of other property
• Ask about usage
• Ask about storage
• Ask why they are selling
• Ask about major repairs
• Ask about accidents
• Previous owners
• Title and other documentation

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• About the Author
• Latest Posts

John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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The post Is 200 Hours a Lot for an ATV? Mechanic says check this first appeared first on ATVFixed.com.

Whether you are skidding around on dusty trails or splashing through the mud, your ATV is bound to get dirty. Most of the time cleaning your ride requires nothing more than a little soap, water, and a garden hose, but then there are times when the dirt and grime gets into places that a garden hose just cannot seem to clean, which prompts many ATV owners to ask, “Is it ok to pressure wash an ATV?”

According to many pressure washing websites, you can pressure wash your ATV so long as you use the correct PSI and practice caution. However, you should be aware that pressure washers can damage certain materials.

Continue reading to learn more about pressure washing your ATV so that you can make an informed decision about the best way to wash your machine.

Pressure Washer vs Power Washer

If you are not familiar with the difference between a pressure washer and a power washer, you are not alone.

A pressure washer is as you know a cleaning machine that sprays water at extremely high pressures, it blasts away stubborn dirt and grime, and they absolutely get the job done! They come in several shapes and sizes and work in diverse ways, with some being more powerful than others.

They are most often used by homeowners to clean sidewalks, garage floors, walkways, and the siding on their house. However, depending on the amount of pressure being used, they can be used for an assortment of things, including cars, patios, fences, decks, and even rugs.

A power washer is almost identical with one critical difference. A power washer employs a heating element to heat the pressured water. Since hot water cleans better than cold a hot pressurized wash is a killer combination and with the correct heat level and pressure, a power washer has no trouble removing paint.

What ATV Manufacturers Say About Pressure Washing

Technically, most ATV handbooks recommend not using a pressure washer and some even warn against it altogether. However, many ATV owners will tell you that it is possible, and perfectly safe, to use a pressure washer to clean your ride.

As long as you use the correct water pressure and understand how to use a pressure washer properly, you will have no trouble washing your ATV.

Are Pressure Washers Dangerous?

Some of the more high-powered machines can get up to 40,000 PSI, which could cut through human flesh and cause serious internal injuries. So, yes, power washers can be dangerous if they are not used with caution and care.

In addition to being dangerous to humans, they can also wreak havoc on certain materials and items. In fact, there is a lengthy list of things that power washers should not be used for. Although, it most often depends on the amount of pressure being used.

As far as whether a pressure washer is dangerous for an ATV, it also depends on the amount of pressure being used. If the water is too high pressure, it could crack the plastic or break other pieces of your ride. It could also force water into areas that you do not want it, such as the engine. A low-pressure bath should be fine, but you should always be wary of where you aim the spray.

ATV Pressure Washing Mistakes To Avoid

Electrics – Avoid spraying on the electrics. Dashboard clocks contain circuitry and LCD displays but even simple light fittings may be damaged by forcing high-pressure water at them. In addition, an ATV’s ignition system won’t appreciate water.

Avoid the coil, coil wire, plug cap, and spark plug. Pressure washing sensitive areas promotes corrosion and may cause engine misfires or not starts.

Avoid the CDI box.

Avoid high-pressure washing of the stator engine cover.

Avoid the Rectifier / Regulator

A damp electrical system can develop into a flooded engine as unburnt gas saturates the spark plug.

Avoid bearings – Sealed bearings are at risk also, high pressure power washers are powerful enough to force water into bearings, and once in the water has no way out. Instead, it causes corrosion and eventually premature bearing failure.

Powerwashing washes away critical grease from components such as chains and pivots, which isn’t an issue once replenished but the correct grease should be used.

Fuel system – Avoid spraying water around the gas cap or carburetor, doing so may cause water to enter the system and that’s a real pain to remove. Avoid also the air intake, spraying water around the airbox risks soaking the air filter.

What Nozzle Should I Use?

Pressure washers come in many shapes and sizes, but luckily, their nozzles are universally color-coded. Which one you use will depend on the job that you are doing, but below you can find a list of the different nozzle colors and a brief description of each one.

Although the nozzles are color-coded, how they work may vary depending on the amount of pressure being used. For example, using the red nozzle on a high-powered pressure washer would produce a much different result than if you used the same nozzle on a very low-powered machine. So, while it is not generally recommended to use a red nozzle on an ATV, if you are using a low-powered washer, it might be safe.

How To Wash an ATV Using a Pressure Washer?

Now that you know more about power washing, it is up to you to decide if you want to use a washer on your ATV. Power washers can make the job of washing your ride a lot easier, especially when it comes to the more stubborn dirt and grime, and by following the steps outlined below, you’ll have your machine ready for your next big adventure in no time.

1. Pre-rinse: Before you do anything else, you should rinse the vehicle. This will help you knock off any loose dirt and grime and soak the more stuck-on dirt. Pay good attention to the lower areas and underside where most of the loose dirt will have collected. The last thing you want is for clumps of dirt to fly back up onto your machine after you have washed it so be sure to get it all now.
2. Soap up: Some power washers allow users to add detergent to the water and use the black nozzle to spray the soapy water all over the vehicle. However, you can just as easily apply the soap with a brush or cloth yourself. Allow it to soak, and then use a sponge or special brush to scrub the hard-to-reach areas of the machine.
3. Rinse: Use the pressure washer to rinse off any soap or degreaser that you applied during the last step. If you notice any areas that may need a second scrub, do that now. While rinsing, make sure that you do not aim your spray directly on any wires or seals, and always avoid getting any water in the engine. If you are using a high-powered pressure washer, make sure the spray is not ripping off decals or damaging any components. It is also a wise idea to use a muffler plug to avoid getting any water where it should not be.
4. Dry: There are a few ways that you can approach this step in the process. The most obvious way to dry your machine is with a towel. Simply wipe off as much water as you can and allow nature to do the rest. However, some ATV owners prefer to use an air compressor (or even a leaf blower) to dry their machine. Doing this can help prevent water from pooling in places you cannot reach with a towel, which could prevent rust problems later.
5. Grease: Once your machine is dry, you can add wax or grease to areas that need it. Keeping chains and grease fittings oiled is an effective way to prevent rust issues and other future problems. You might also decide to spray a protective coating on areas such as the shocks and springs or undercarriage.
6. Show Off: Now that all the hard work is done, it is time to relax and take a nice muddy ride!

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• About the Author
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John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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Taking care of your own ATV is its own reward. You’ll save a bag on workshop costs, suffer fewer breakdowns, but more than that, you’ll learn a ton of ATV know-how.

An ATV requires a lube service every 300 miles or three months, whichever comes first. Other important maintenance items and intervals include:

• Air filter clean every 100 miles or 1 month
• New plug yearly
• Drain carburetor every 3 months
• Coolant change every 2 years
• Clean spark arrestor yearly
• Change diff oil every 4 years
• Brake fluid 2 years
• Brake hoses every 4 years

In this post, you’ll learn when you should service your ATV and what other maintenance and adjustments are needed.

Service Intervals

An ATV works hard, and while tough, they do need some love. Taking care of your own ATV maintenance is the correct decision. You know your bike best, and if it’s acting up, you can get on it early, and that very often saves you money and time in the longer game.

So what kind of maintenance needs to be done and when? ATVs are so versatile. It’s not surprising they’re so popular. They’re used for a variety of forestry, search, and rescue, recreation, farming, etc.

And how they are used differs, and that, as you can imagine, changes how they wear out their components.

Most ATVs don’t cover lots of miles; instead, they travel shorter distances, more of a stop-start life. For that reason, three metrics are used as a guide to service intervals – Miles, Hours, and records.

Servicing by Miles

We’re all familiar with this concept. The miles traveled by the ATV are recorded by a digital or analog dash Speedo.

Servicing by Hours

Some ATVs may be fitted with an hour reader. This is common practice with Agri and construction machinery. The dashboard incorporated hour meter starts whenever the engine is running.

Servicing by Records

Time since the last service isn’t recorded by most ATVs, so the operator or maintainer must keep a good record of maintenance carried out and also maintenance needed at the next service and when that is. It’s good practice to place a sticker on the bike as a reminder of its next service due date.

As ATV riders, we should always think of preventative maintenance. Of course, many of us do without even realizing it. Checking the oil before starting, visually checking over tires, steering components, checking for leaks, and being generally aware of our kit.

You know your own bike best, how it sounds and feels, how it performs, gas mileage, oil consumption. Noticing a change in your bike and being inquisitive about it is preventative maintenance.

Change oil and filter

Oil quality is mission-critical to your motor. In fact, the breaking in oil change is arguably the most important oil change of the machine’s life. Oil lubes the components, but it also cools them, and detergents in the oil help dissolve harmful acids inside your motor.

You couldn’t change oil too often, I’ve worked on engines for over twenty years, and the difference between a well-maintained motor and a neglected one is obvious even to the untrained eye.

Your oil type and quantity are important too. Using the oil specified by your engine maker makes good sense as they have likely stress-tested the motor using the recommended grade lube.

A common lube is 5w30, but ambient temperatures will dictate the weight of oil you use.

Air filter

Clean and oil every 100 miles or one month, more regularly in dusty conditions.

A dirty air filter will cause your engine to run rich, blow black smoke, bog down under throttle and dilute the engine oil.

New plug

Replace the plug every year. Better plug design means they last a lot longer. Your plug will need to be removed, cleaned, and gaped every three to six months or every 160 hours approx.

You can tell a lot about how your engine’s running by examining the plug. A healthy running engine will cause the spark plug electrode to turn a tan color.

• Black plug, means your running rich (Fat)
• Black and oily means possible mechanical issue
• Grey/white plug and your running lean

Gaping the plug will require a feeler gauge or a plug gaper tool. It’s a simple process of measuring the plug electrode gap with the gauge and adjusting it with pliers if needed. An average gap spec is about .028 – .031 in (.7 – .8 mm).

Plug tightening

Both too loose and too tight are common. Plugs are fitted with crush washers, which, when new, resemble a donut. The plug is tightened for the first time. It crushes the washer and makes a good seal.

Plug fitting tips

New plug – always starts threading the plug by hand. After the plug seats, turn it about 1/2 turn, using a ratchet and plug socket.

Used plug – Thread by hand until seats and turn a 1/4 turn with socket and ratchet.

Bowl Drain

All ATV carburetors cause problems eventually. Fueling is by far the most common ATV problem. It’s not because carburetors are of bad quality. It’s simply because mixing gas and air to a precise ratio is only possible if all components of the fueling system are working correctly.

It’s worth noting that air plays a large part in how carburetor functions, the root cause of a fueling system fault may be caused by an airflow fault.

Your gas is filtered and sometimes twice, but crap in the form of water, silt, and other contaminants gets into the fuel system. Remnants of gas cans with mixed gas and stale gas are a common cause of performance issues.

All fuel passes through the fuel bowl, and cleaning is all part of the maintenance checks. A gas bowl will have an easy-to-access drain screw or removable bung.

It’s good practice to remove and drain the bowl every time you change the oil. If you have an in-line filter, check it too and replace it yearly.

If your ATV is fuel injected you won’t have to worry about bowl draining as they don’t employ one. You will need to clean the gas filter though.

If you’re storing your bike for an extended period, stale gas can create gumming of the carburetor. This is a problem that’s becoming more common with the proliferation of ethanol-blended fuels.

I use a gas stabilizer additive and fill my gas tank to the top. It helps prevent gumming, moisture build-up and keeps the gas fresh for up to 12 months.

Coolant Change

Not all bikes are water-cooled, but even if your bike is air-cooled, it will need maintenance. Keep the engine cooling fins free from debris and obstruction. If your engine has a coolant system, you’ll need to make some extra checks. Coolant quality and quantity is super important.

It’s best to change coolant out every two years and no more than 3.

Running straight water or old coolant is risky and no coolant at all is risking imminent engine failure at worst and failed head gasket at best.

Coolant is, as you know, specially formulated to have a higher boiling point 220°F, and the antifreeze agents cause it to have a lower freezing point, mixed at a ratio of 50/50. The freezing point is about 35°F.

Two other important agents in fresh coolant include – a rust inhibitor that protects all the components of the system and a lube that helps keep the seals, pump, thermostat, gaskets supple.

While it is possible to use water in the system, it isn’t advised, even topping up with straight water is risky as it dilutes the antifreeze. In addition, water chemicals are harsh on all the components and promote corrosion in head-gaskets, frost plugs, etc.

When replacing the coolant, I advise customers to replace the thermostat also.

A typical system takes about 1.5 US quarts of ethylene glycol mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

Exhaust Spark Arrestor

Spark arrestor, while not fitted to all ATVs from new, is the law in many states to have one fitted. The arrestor prevents forest fires by catching any embers that may exit the tailpipe.

The arrestor is fitted to the rear of the tailpipe and is a simple wire mesh guard. The guard can become caked in carbon deposits that restrict exhaust gas flow and choke your engine.

An inspection and cleaning once a year is normal, however, every six months or 160 hours is best.

If your arrestor is choking up more frequently, you may have a mechanical issue.

Front and Rear Differential Oil

Differential oil lives a long life relative to engine oil – four years. Diff oil has a sticky, gloppy consistency and is excellent at coating components. The ability to stick is important as a diff doesn’t have an oil pump to move oil around. Instead, the diff relies on splashing oil about.

Your bike will have a recommended gear oil type, SAE 80 Hypoid oil is typically, and a diff doesn’t hold a lot of oil, about .3 of a US quart. Differential oil becomes less sticky with age and contaminated by fine metal particles. The metal occurs naturally as gears wear and act like liquid sandpaper if not drained and replaced periodically.

Brake Fluid

Brake fluid is often forgotten about, and it can be a costly mistake. Brake fluid likes to be changed every two years. The problem with brake fluid is it absorbs water, and the water promotes corrosion inside the brake system. Corrosive particulates then damage and tear the seals of master cylinders and caliper pistons seals.

Other issues with moisture-laden brake fluid include spongy brakes and brake fade. Both problems can be solved by changing the fluid and bleeding the system.

Inspecting, Adjusting & Lubing

Various components will need adjusting at various times, and putting a time limit on it or mileage won’t make any sense. Take brake pads, for example, pads could last years on one ATV and only months on another. It’s dependent on how the machine is used.

A thorough inspection of your machine is advised every three months, some inspection points will only require yearly attention, and some of these won’t apply to your bike at all.

Tyres & Wheels

• Tire damage
• Thread depth
• Inflation

Wheels Rims

• Damage
• Bead lock fasteners
• Wheel nut torqued
• Clean debris buildup

Steering

• Free-play ball joints inner
• Free-play ball joints outer
• Steering head bearing

Brakes

• Leaks
• Fluid level
• Controls secure
• Pads/shoes wear
• Hoses perished twisted or cracked
• Adjustments, drums and levers
• Lube controls

Suspension

• Bushing & ball joint free-play
• Shock leaks
• Loose components
• Suspension Level
• Grease joints

Engine

• Check for leaks
• Airbox debris and drain pipes clear
• Coolant strength
• Clean exterior rad debris
• Check rad cap, hoses, and cooling fan operation
• Rebuild water pump every 4 years
• Carburetor mix and idle adjustment (3 – 6 months)
• Valve lash check (6 – 12 months)

Drive line

• Leaks
• Wheel bearing free-play
• Drive shaft boots
• CV joints
• Diff lock adjustment
• Diff vents
• Grease joints
• CVT belt inspection
• CVT Clutches
• Manual trans clutch adjustment

Electrical

• Battery fluid level check
• Battery cable clean
• Battery test
• Battery charging test
• Check fuses and relays clean and dry
• Solenoid cables are tight and clean
• Stater cable tight and secure
• CDI box block connector secure
• Rectifier/regulator clean and secure
• Electrical switches secure and working
• Electrical components secure and working lights winches etc.
• Check engine loom harness secure, block connectors free from corrosion

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John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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Buying or selling an ATV is serious business. They cost thousands, and it makes great sense to do your homework ahead of time. Buying or selling, it’s critical to get the legal ownership bit right.

ATVs have titles. It’s not uncommon for ATVs to change ownership without a title. However, some states require a title for an ATV, even for off-highway use. Title documents detail the ATV and its legal owner. Having title documents offers complete confidence to both buyer and seller when transacting.

In this post, you’ll learn why buying or selling an ATV without a title can be a gamble. You’ll also learn if you do choose to transact without title, the one document you’ll need to minimize risk.

Unfortunately, most older ATVs just don’t have titles, never did, or long since lost. It’s just the way it is. Attitude to the title is changing. However, newer ATVs are more likely to have titles.

So What Is Title

The title is a document that lists all the details of the vehicle, like make model, color, VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), etc., and most important details, the name, and address of the legal owner.

The title document is also known as the “Pink sheet,” it is issued by the dept of motor vehicles (DMV) to the legal owner and is a recognized legal document.

If you hold the pink sheet in your name, you are the owner of the ATV and are free to sell, trade, or borrow against it.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Title

Most guys might say, “I’m not using my ATV on the highway why should I get it titled?” But there are some real advantages to having a proper title.

Advantages of title include:

• You can ride in parks that insist on titled ATV’s only
• Proves ownership in a legal dispute
• Easier to sell
• Has a higher value
• Easier to insure – some insurance insist on title before quoting insurance
• Easier to make a loss claim – some insurance won’t pay out unless titled
• Legal to transport throughout all states

Disadvantages include:

• Paperwork to fill out
• Paperwork to file and keep safe
• Costs of titling
• On going taxes in some states
• Could be fined and have to pay back taxes in some states

Buying Without Title

OK, so you have found the ATV for you. She’s excellent mechanically has a few mods, looks good, and is your kind of dollar. The last thing most buyers check is the title. But, if you think about it, it should be the first thing we check. Hey, I’m guilty, too…get all giddy with the thoughts of ownership.

The reason we don’t pay too much attention to the paperwork, I suspect, is because we intend to use it off-road. But the title is important, and here’s why – stolen bikes.

Stolen Bikes

If you’re buying a bike without any paperwork, you are putting complete trust in a total stranger, and not just with your money but also with your liberty. A ton of ATVs are stolen every year because they are easy to steal and easy to sell. And that’s because purchasers are prepared to buy without a title.

Consider this. If a stolen bike is found in your possession, it will be seized by the police and given back to the rightful owner. You lose your money and bike but worse. You may be prosecuted for stealing it or trading in stolen property.

Do you think I’m getting carried away here? I say no, this is a possible scenario, especially if you met the seller in a parking lot. Another scenario rarely considered is a bank lien on the ATV. The ATV may indeed have a pink slip, but it’s held by a moneylender against a loan outstanding.

The lien owner will have a better right to the ATV than you, and you’ll get the crappy end of the stick on this one too.

Bill Of Sale

I don’t suspect every owner of an untitled ATV to be a thief. If I did, I’d have no customers in the workshop. And, if you know the owner of an ATV, you don’t have to worry, but it still makes sense to get a BOS (Bill Of Sale).

But do protect yourself. If you’re buying an ATV without a title, ask to see any receipts for work done over their ownership. Check the VIN against stolen bikes by ringing the local police station. And always insist on a bill of sale. It’s simple to prepare ahead of time, either by the buyer or seller.

Take a sheet of paper and list the following:

• Sellers name and address
• Buyers name and address
• Date and place
• ATV make
• VIN number
• Colour
• Price
• Reason for title docs not present
• Signed by both parties each has a copy

Having a BOS won’t prevent you from losing the bike if it turns out stolen, but at least you’ll be protected from the suspicion of stealing it. Check your potential purchase by running the VIN here at NICB.Org. It’s free and instant.

How To Get Title

If you already own the bike and lost the title or have owned it from new and never titled it, you need to reapply to the DMV. As you know, it’s not the law in every state to have your ATV titled, and the process varies, so check with your local DMV for the status of ATVs for off-highway use.

If you recently purchased the ATV, you’ll need a bill of sale (BOS), and it may need to be witnessed by a notary. The vehicle will need to be inspected and VINs checked before the title is finalized.

You may find the following posts helpful:

How often should I service an ATV?

Does ATV tire width matter?

Is 200 hours a lot for an ATV?

Can ATV go in the water?

• About the Author
• Latest Posts

John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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The post Do ATV’s Have Title? (Read this first) appeared first on ATVFixed.com.

I’m a mechanic and I’m often asked about starting ATVs during hibernation, sure it keeps the battery charged, but it can cause some other issues. Prepping your ATV for hibernation is not difficult, but it does require nailing a few procedures correctly. Getting four simple hibernation steps right will save you a ton of trouble and money.

It’s not necessary to start an ATV if it’s winterized correctly. To keep an ATV in great shape and ready to run at the touch of the start button, follow these four tips:

1. Store bike indoors
2. Use a gas stabilizer
3. Keep gas tank full
4. Use a smart battery charger

In this post, you’ll learn why you shouldn’t run your ATV engine for short periods. You’ll also learn how to keep your bike in top shape and ready to roll at a moment’s notice.

Don’t Start Your Bike

I don’t recommend starting your bike during hibernation unless you’re going to ride it. Allowing your bike to idle for a few minutes every few days or weeks does more harm than good. An engine needs to get up to operating temperature before it can burn off the moisture that naturally develops inside the motor.

In addition, starting a cold engine requires a choke, which when repeatedly done simply causes raw gas to wash the cylinder, stripping it of its protective oil coating. Allowing your exhaust to get warm and not hot will only cause condensation buildup, which promotes corrosion.

Starting and riding your bike until it reaches operating temperatures regularly, like every week, is a good thing. It will help keep the brakes clean, the cables operating, and the internals moisture-free. Generally, machinery doesn’t like lying about. But if riding it every few weeks to get it properly warm, isn’t a solution for you then you’ll need to winterize your bike properly.

Winterizing an ATV for long-term storage is a multi-step process that I cover towards the end of this article. But there’s a shorter version, by nailing the four steps laid out below, your ATV will be covered pretty well covered.

1 Storage

Where your bike is stored will have the largest effect on how well your bike survives during the hibernation period. Storing a bike in a heated garage would be the very best solution, and bikes stored indoors will cause the least trouble over their lifetime.

Failing that, a shelter and breathable cover is the next best option. But a breathable cover is important, a plastic sheet will cause condensation and lock it in, which is exactly what you don’t want. A dedicated breathable cover is worth the investment and will pay for itself many times over.

2 Gas Stabiliser

Use a gas stabilizer additive in your gas if you don’t intend to ride your bike inside the next thirty days. Blended gas, which is most gas now, only stays fresh for about a month (depending on storage) and regular gas about three.

Aa blended gas ages it loses its zing, your bike will still run but won’t have the same punch. But add a few more months, and the gas starts to evaporate, and bikes fitted with carburetors will develop a sticky gummy deposit that blocks up fuel circuits.

The only way to fix this is carb removal, strip down, and thorough cleaning. You may also need to replace components like float needle and seat. All this can be avoided by using the gas stabilizer, you could use it year-round, but I only use it when the bike is hibernating.

It’s easy to use. Mix it with the gas to the ratio direction on the bottle and fill up the tank. Run the engine long enough to get the mix throughout the fuel system. That’s it fuel system protected for up to two years in some cases.

3 Keep Gas Tank Full

Keep your gas tank full to the top. It prevents moisture buildup and corrosion. This is great advice I got from an old-timer many years ago. In those days, gas tanks were sheet metal. But the advice still stands for today’s plastic tanks. Gas tank corrosion has been eliminated, but water in the fuel system will still cause headaches.

The theory behind this is pretty solid. Keeping the gas tank full reduces interior gas tank surface area, and therefore nowhere for condensation to form.

4 Battery Charger

A flat battery is one of the biggest challenges with storing your bike. A battery, as you know, is designed to be charged and discharged continuously. That’s what keeps it vibrant. Connecting and disconnecting batteries is a pain in the jacksie and isn’t practical.

The solution is a smart charger. It’s called a smart charger because you plug it in as any normal charger and forget about it until you want to ride. It continuously senses the battery state of charge and applies charge only when needed. It won’t overcharge your battery and is inexpensive to use.

No need to disconnect the battery, no need to start the bike to charge the battery. It’s plug a play kit and can be used on cars, trucks, riding mowers, etc.

Charging a Flat ATV Battery

Allowing an ATV battery to discharge completely will cause problems when attempting to recharge when using a regular battery charger. A battery charger’s fail-safe won’t allow the charger to turn on if battery voltage is too low.

Connecting a fully charged battery with jumper cables allows the charger to operate and the jumper cables may be removed after twenty minutes or so.

Continue to charge the battery for 3-4 hours.

ATV Winterizing

As said the four steps detailed above do most of the heavy lifting when storing an ATV, however, if you want to go all the way here are all the steps you’ll need to take.

• Add fuel stabilizer and fill the gas tank – gas stabilizer keeps gas fresh and full tank prevents condensation
• Warm bike and change engine oil – old oil contains moisture, changing the oil helps prevent internal corrosion
• Wash and allow the bike to dry fully – removing muck and road salts helps prevent corrosion

• Lube cylinder – oils the walls of the cylinder, helps prevent corrosion
• Set engine to TDC – setting the engine to top dead center closes the valves and helps keep moisture out of the cylinder and prevents sticking valves

• Clean, gap and refit the spark plug – makes for easier starting
• Remove air filter and clean – discourages rodents from making a home in your airbox
• Stuff tailpipe – prevents moisture inside the exhaust system
• Fit a smart battery charger – check battery terminals are clean and tight and fit your smart battery charger
• Teflon coat the body and electrics – helps protect from moisture
• Place bike on axle stands – takes a load off tires and suspension components
• Store bike indoors – storing in a heated garage would be best
• Cover bike with a breathable cover – helps protect from moisture and rodents

That’s it, for longer periods of storage the extra steps are worth it.

You may find the following posts useful:

How to jumpstart an ATV?

Okay, to leave bike in the rain?

Storing bike outside

Can you run bike without battery?

• About the Author
• Latest Posts

John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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The post How Often Should I Start My ATV (Don’t, this is why) appeared first on ATVFixed.com.

Running a new ATV engine can be a nail-biting experience. It’s important to get it correct. The break-in period will affect how the engine performs throughout its life.

To break in a new ATV, follow your manufacturer’s break-in recommendations. A typical new or rebuilt engine break-in procedure is as follows:

1 Use regular engine oil for the break-in procedure
2 Check fluid levels
3 Warm engine
4 Check for leaks
5 Run engine up to 75% throttle in 2 and 3 gear for 30 minutes
6 Change oil and filter
7 Repeat 5 & 6, and the engine is run-in

In this post, you’ll learn how I break in a new engine, and I’ll explain why I do it this way.

Getting a new set of wheels is an exciting time. These toys are expensive. You want to treat them right and have them for many trouble-free years.

When breaking in a new ATV, it’s the engine we’re concerned with. Most other components don’t need a break-in period.

I’ve been lucky enough to own a couple of new ATVs and a ton of used ones. I’ve rebuilt lots of engines, and in this guide, you’ll see how I break them in.

Cylinder Honing

When engines are built, the cylinder is honed or crosshatched. That’s a system of polishing, if you like, the cylinder wall surface.

Crosshatching the bore creates an abrasive surface, and you’d think that counterproductive, but crosshatching is needed to help shape the new piston rings to the exact shape of the cylinder wall.

The better the cylinder and ring surfaces pair, the better she’ll perform over her lifetime. Your engine will be noticeable more:

• Durable
• Powerful
• Quieter
• Smoother
• Fuel efficient

Oil Type

The break-in starts with the oil. Synthetic and semi-synthetic oil is excellent, but that’s a problem when breaking in a new motor. We want the rings and crosshatched bore to make good contact. Without contact, the bedding won’t happen.

Synthetic oil is too slippy for break-in. If your engine has synthetic oil in from the factory, change it, run with regular petroleum-based oil, just for the break-in procedure.

Pre Flight Checks

Check the fluids, allow the engine to idle for a few minutes to warm up. Take this time to check for any leaks or loose components. When the engines warm, we’ll start the break-in procedure immediately.

Run Engine at 75%

You’ll need somewhere you won’t be impeded. It isn’t practical to run a break-in session where there’s traffic or pedestrians etc. A quiet country road is ideal.

Run the bike at 75% throttle in 2 and 3 gear, varying the time spent at 75%. Allow the engine decelerate, again varying the time spent decelerating. Run this cycle for 30 minutes, keeping an eye on the temperature.

If the bike gets too hot, use good sense, run it in a higher gear and back off the throttle.

The break-in period doesn’t last long on a new engine. For most, the window is a few hours of running. After that, the opportunity is lost. The rings and cylinder are pretty much as mated as they’ll ever be.

Do you think 75% throttle is too much? Yea, I can see why you’d think that. I run at 75% because I want the piston rings pushed hard against the cylinder wall for as long as possible during the break-in window.

The higher rpm creates more ring cylinder wall pressure and, therefore, better pairing.

Change Oil & Filter

After 30 minutes run time, drop the oil and filter and replace again with non-synthetic petroleum-based oil. I’ll change the oil because at this stage risk of contaminants in the oil is high. The break-in sessions will cause fine metal particles to circulate the oil system.

Rinse & Repeat

Check all fluids and allow engine idle to operating temperature once again. Repeat the break-in drive cycle for another 30 minutes, as before.

After two-thirty-minute sessions, your engine is broken in. I changed the oil and filter again, but this time use the recommended grade oil. You may be semi or fully synthetic. I changed the oil again after about 8 hours of running time and from then as per your manual.

Belt Care

If your new ATV is CVT belt-driven, break-in is minimal. Most manufacturers will ask that you refrain from running at full throttle until the belt beds in. Overheating the belt can cause glazing and transmission slip.

That’s it, congratulations, and enjoy many years of trouble-free ownership.

You may find the following posts useful:

How often to service bike?

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Storing ATV outside

• About the Author
• Latest Posts

John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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The post Break In New ATV (You Need To Know This) appeared first on ATVFixed.com.

I live in Ireland, and it rains a lot, so for me, riding in the rain isn’t a novel experience. But you’re right to ask the question. After all, you wouldn’t leave a soft-top car sitting in the rain.

Rain won’t hurt an ATV. It’s designed for use in all weather conditions. While your ATV is weatherproof, it isn’t waterproof and should be sheltered when stored.

In this post, you’ll learn what will hurt your ATV and how you can prevent it. I’ll share my tips for keeping your ATV’s mission-critical components clean and dry in monsoon conditions.

Weather Proof V’s Water Proof

Your four-wheeler is weatherproof, and by weatherproof, I mean a downpour won’t hurt any of its components. Your ATV has been designed to rip through all types of terrain in all types of weather, and that includes water splashes.

Parking your ATV outdoors in the rain short term isn’t a problem, but parking it outdoors long term will cause you lots of headaches. Anyway, if you park your ATV outside, you might find this post helpful. How to store your ATV outdoors.

Deep water

All the mission-critical kit like dash clocks, ignition switches, CDI units, electrical relays, and carburetor intakes are usually mounted as high as possible on the bike. Nevertheless, all important electrical modules are fitted with water seals, and the wiring sockets are fitted with weather pack plug seals, which are weatherproof.

But sadly, your four-wheeler isn’t waterproof, meaning if you stay in the drink for too long, water will seep into components and cause failure.

Front and rear lights will take on water, and bulbs will likely blow. But far more serious than that is a condition known as hydro-locking, which can kill your engine in a heartbeat.

So what is hydro-locking? Hydro-locking happens when you venture too far into the drink, and the air intake sucks up a cylinder full of river water.

Water, unlike fuel-air mix, isn’t compressible and so something has to give. A bent con-rod or a hole in the engine casing is common. And you’ve guessed it. Your engine is totaled, the fun’s over. I’ve done it, and it’s a horrible feeling.

If, however, you’re lucky, you can remove, clean, and dry the spark plug and crank over the engine to clear the cylinder. You’ll also need to:

• Remove the air filter
• Clear and dry the air box
• Fit a new air filter
• Drain the carburetor bowl

So how can you prevent hydro-locking damage? Taking care, knowing your ATVs capabilities and the terrain are your best defenses.

Lower RPM reduces the chances of hydro-locking when messing around in the water, but where’s the fun in that, right!

The best option is to fit a snorkel. A snorkel is an accessory that extends the intake ducting and raises the opening to above the handlebar height.

The snorkel is usually fitted in front of the driver, and the opening faces backward, so the driver has a clear view of the water level. In theory, as long as an ATV has access to air, it will run.

Protecting Mission-Critical ATV Components

Okay, so you know if your going deep end, you need a snorkel. But what about protection for components from regular old everyday rain. Well, let’s take a look at what works for me and has done for years.

It rains a lot here, even in summertime, that’s why our grass is so green and our milk so rich. To combat all that moisture, I use two magic ingredients to help protect my quad.

I begin with the thoroughly clean and dry kit, I’ll remove skid pans and covers to get better access, and I’ll dig out any muck and clear any water traps. I’ll go ahead and spray WD40 penetrating oil on all electrical components like:

• Ignition switch
• CDI module
• Relays
• Starter solenoid
• Plug wire & cap
• Electrical connectors
• Handle bar switches
• Throttle control cables
• Brake controls

As the body is clean, I’ll use DuPont Teflon coating to almost everything in sight.

• Engine and components
• Suspension & steering components
• Brake components (NOT ROTORS)
• Electrical wiring
• Body panels (NOT SEAT OR HANDLE BAR GRIPS)
• Controls
• Dash clocks

The Teflon coating helps keep kit clean and repels rain. You’ll find much won’t stick to it as firmly as before, and water runs off the surfaces. This, of course, won’t last forever, and depending on how often you use your ATV, you may need to repeat this several times a year.

Power washing removes the coating, so I try to avoid washing as long as possible.

Related Questions

Can ATV’s go in the water? Yes, some ATVs are able to go into the water. But ATVs are not waterproof and while ripping through water splashes is fine, deeper water can cause serious engine damage and should be avoided.

You may find the following helpful:

Start flooded bike

• About the Author
• Latest Posts

John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

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The post Will Rain Hurt My ATV? (My Secret Tips) appeared first on ATVFixed.com.

Storing your ATV outside isn’t ideal but I understand, some folks just don’t have the storage space. I have collected lots of old ATV’s and cars over the years and most aren’t stored indoors, but they are protected.

To successfully store an ATV outside, follow these five outdoor storage tips.

1. Use a breathable cover
2. Use a gas stabilizer
3. Keep your gas tank full
4. Use WD40 to protect
5. Remove the battery for longer term storage

In this post, you’ll learn how to safely store your ATV outside without causing damage. I’ll also share my top tips for long-term ATV storage.

1 Use a Breathable Cover

When storing your four-wheeler outside, you need protection from the elements. A quality cover is by far the number one best investment you can make for the protection of your ATV.

Sure ATVs are designed to be rugged and durable and can be stored outside. But without basic protection like a cover, you’ll find before long your once reliable machine will develop lots of annoying problems.

Common issues with ATVs that live outdoors without suitable weather protection include:

• Premature battery failure
• Blown light bulbs
• Electrical control switch failure
• Ignition switch failure
• Wiring corrosion
• Sticking/seizing brakes & controls
• Chassis & fastener corrosion
• UV damaged plastic components

Nearly all of these problems are caused by moisture, and so if your ATV lives in a dry state, I’m jealous, lucky you. But for most, some weather protection is needed to keep your machine dry.

Don’t be tempted to cover it in plastic. It’s an honest mistake to make. But it does more damage over the long term as the plastic causes moisture to condense on component surfaces.

That’s where the damage begins. The moisture turns to corrosion which causes high resistance in electrical circuits and causes moving parts like cables and brake levers to stick and seize.

Buy a really good quality cover, and make sure it’s a breathable cover. This reduces condensation buildup. If you can, park your ATV somewhere sheltered from rain/snow but in direct wind. Sounds counterproductive, I know, but the wind helps dry off any trapped moisture on the machine.

And if you are the lucky reader in the dry state, the cover still applies, as you know only too well, the sun will kill your plastic and rubber components.

2 Use a Gas Stabilizer

What is a gas stabilizer, and what does it do? A gas stabilizer is an additive you mix with the gas. You can buy it in any auto parts shop. It prevents gas from stale and helps prevent moisture and gumming buildup inside the gas tank and carburetor.

Water in the gas is common with machines stored outdoors, and it causes all kinds of running issues. No starts, bogging down, no power, hesitation, etc. The only fix here is to drain the tank and flush out the carburetor.

Using a gas stabilizer will help prevent moisture buildup. Modern gas is, as you may know, a blend of ethanol and regular gas. The ethanol mix attracts moisture and can cause problems in atmospheric gas tanks.

Gumming of the carburetor is common, too, and a lot more work to fix. What is gumming? Gumming is a sticky solidified mess that congeals inside the carburetor, blocking up fuel jets and other mission-critical fuel delivery passageways.

What causes gumming? Gumming is caused by stale gas, which, when left in a fuel system for months, turns into a sticky deposit. It’s more common in vehicles that are stored outdoors, like tractor mowers, etc.

Blended gas is more likely to cause gumming than regular gas, as blended gas may begin to turn stale after just one month under certain conditions.

3 Keep Gas Tank Full

ATV gas tanks are vented through the gas cap. The air is drawn in as the gas level in the tank drops. Moisture will condense inside a gas tank and isn’t a big problem if your ATV is used every day.

But moisture can accumulate in machinery suiting idle for long periods. The moisture in the fuel system will make its way to the carburetor, where it can corrode components.

The best advice is to use a gas stabilizer and keep your gas tank full. A full tank helps prevent moisture buildup. The idea is simple, less available air and surface area inside the tank equal less condensation on the walls of the tank.

4 Use WD40 To Protect

My favorite tool is WD40 penetrating oil. This stuff has fantastic properties. It repels moisture, prevents corrosion, protects plastics and rubber from UV damage.

If you’re storing your kit outdoors, you need to protect it from corrosion. Power wash your ATV and allow it to dry thoroughly in the sun with a breeze is preferable, and that’s important because WD40 can lock moisture in if your components aren’t completely dry.

I like to spray all the electrical components first and the controls, bodywork, and engine. It works great everywhere except the brake rotors.

5 Remove The Battery

Battery’s hate the cold, and they hate being discharged fully. So if you were storing your ATV outdoors for longer periods, go ahead and remove the battery and store it indoors. A battery doesn’t like being idle. It likes to be discharged and charged constantly.

I use a smart charger on my ATV battery. The charger monitors the battery constantly and charges it as needed. This keeps the battery in top condition and will prolong the life of the battery.

A good smart charger might set you back about $100, but it is well worth the investment, especially if your ATV lays idle for a good part of the year.

For Longer Term Storage

If you’re hibernating your ATV for more than a couple of months, it’s worth sitting the chassis on some axle stands. Taking a load off the tires helps prevent flat spots and cracking the tire walls.

Plug your muffler with some steel wool and also the inlet to the airbox. Mice like to set up home here. Setting some bait around the machine helps prevent rodents from eating your wiring loom. They find wiring insulation irresistible.

Remove your Spark plug and drop a cap full of engine oil in, spin over the engine to coat the cylinder with oil, and refit the plug. This prevents corrosion to the cylinder bore.

I also like to close the valves to seal off the cylinder – rotate the engine to TDC.

Related Questions

Why does my ATV click when I try to start it? Your ATV clicks when you try to start it because the battery is flat. Other likely reasons include:

• Failed battery
• Loose battery connections
• Faulty starter solenoid
• Faulty starter motor
• Faulty start relay
• Faulty Ignition switch

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• About the Author
• Latest Posts

John Cunningham

John Cunningham is a technical writer here at ATVfixed.com. He’s a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience. He’s worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars and trucks to ATVs and Dirt bikes.

www.atvfixed.com/about-john-cunningham/

• ATV Rear Brake Pedal Stuck - Solved!
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• Will Dirt Bike Start If Timing Off? Run this test

The post Storing ATV Outside (5 Top tips) appeared first on ATVFixed.com.